Lilly Pilly Pimples: Psyllids, and Whether to Fight or Replant

Well-maintained lilly pilly hedge in a suburban Australian backyard

Lilly pilly is Australia’s default hedge, and the pimple problem is its default complaint: new leaves come through blistered and bumpy, like the foliage has acne, and every flush looks worse than the last. The culprit is the lilly pilly psyllid, and here’s the strategic truth most advice avoids: on a susceptible variety, you will never spray your way out. The winning moves are tolerance, timing — or the permanent fix, which is variety choice.

What’s actually happening

Psyllids are tiny sap-sucking insects whose nymphs settle on the soft new flush; the leaf responds by growing a pit around each feeder, which reads from the outside as pimples and dimples. Three consequences worth internalising. It’s cosmetic — an established lilly pilly carries decades of psyllid attention without dying; the hedge is ugly, not sick. It’s flush-driven — only new growth can be pitted, so damage arrives in waves after each growth or pruning flush (the same protect-the-flush logic as citrus leaf miner). And it’s variety-determined — some lilly pilly species and cultivars get hammered while others standing beside them stay glossy. That last fact is the whole game.

If you’re keeping the hedge you have

  • Reframe first. From a few metres away, most psyllid damage vanishes into the mass of the hedge. If nobody notices without being shown, the correct treatment is none.
  • Prune with the cycle, not against it. Every trim triggers soft flush — a psyllid banquet. Fewer, well-timed prunes (letting flushes harden between cuts) produce fewer pimpled waves than constant snipping. Trimming off the worst-affected flush also physically removes the current generation; bin the clippings.
  • Keep the plant cruising, not surging. Heavy feeding and water produce the lush, continuous soft growth psyllids prefer. Steady conditions, steadier leaves.
  • Let the predators work. Parasitic wasps and other beneficials quietly regulate psyllid numbers — one more argument against spraying a flowering hedge, which trades a cosmetic problem for a dead-beneficial one. The bee-safe logic from the aphid playbook applies wholesale.
  • Spraying, if you insist: contact sprays can’t reach nymphs inside their pits, systemic options on a metres-long hedge are a serious and recurring undertaking, and either way the next flush is a fresh target. This is why the honest framing is management, not cure — and why anything you do use is governed entirely by its registered label.

The permanent fix: resistant varieties

If the hedge is young, badly affected, or you’re planting new: choose a psyllid-resistant lilly pilly and the problem simply never starts. Resistance varies strongly across the lilly pilly group — nurseries mark resistant cultivars prominently because it’s the number-one question — so buy on that trait first and mature size second (the second-most-regretted hedge decision is a “compact” variety that wanted to be a tree). Check current nursery listings for resistant selections in your size range rather than trusting an old list; breeding has moved quickly.

Replacing a suffering young hedge feels like defeat and is actually arithmetic: two years of spraying and sulking versus a resistant row that outgrows the originals. And if the pimples have soured you on lilly pilly entirely, there’s a whole bench of alternative hedging that behaves — that decision guide is coming in this cluster.

Powdery Mildew on Zucchini, Cucumbers and Pumpkins: Manage It, Don’t Panic

Backyard vegetable bed with zucchini and pumpkin foliage being checked by hand

If you grow zucchini, cucumbers or pumpkins anywhere humid — which is to say, most of coastal Australia in summer — powdery mildew is not a possibility, it’s a scheduled appearance. White, talc-like powder spreading across the leaves, starting with the oldest. Here’s the reframe that saves the season: mildew is managed, not defeated, and a plant can carry a moderate coating while still handing you fruit for weeks. The goal is slowing it down long enough to out-harvest it.

Confirm it’s the powdery kind

Powdery mildew sits on top of leaves — white, dusty, wipeable with a thumb — and spreads in warm, humid air. Its nastier cousin downy mildew shows as angular yellow patches on the upper leaf with greyish growth underneath, loves cool wet weather, and moves much faster. The thumb test and the top-vs-bottom check separate them; this article is about the powdery one. (For the garden’s other lookalikes and damage patterns, the pest-and-problem hub has the full lineup.)

Slow it down: the cultural levers

These are the measures that genuinely change the curve, and they’re all free:

  • Space and airflow. Mildew adores crowded, still, humid canopies. Plant cucurbits further apart than feels right, and thin congested leaves so air moves.
  • Water the soil, not the leaves — in the morning. Humidity around foliage is the fuel; the watering method that suits everything else suits mildew management too.
  • Remove the worst leaves, moderately. Cutting the whitest few old leaves (into the bin, not the compost) reduces the spore load. Don’t strip the plant — it still needs leaves to make fruit, and over-pruning stresses it into vulnerability.
  • Sun placement. Shaded, dew-holding corners breed it; full-sun plants resist longer.
  • Feed steadily, not lushly. Soft over-fertilised growth is the most susceptible tissue on the plant.

The milk spray, honestly

Diluted milk is the folk remedy that turned out to be more than folklore: home gardeners use it widely, and there’s supportive trial evidence for partial suppression on cucurbits. The honest reading: sprayed regularly on still-clean and lightly affected leaves, it can slow establishment; it does not cure coated leaves, results vary, and skipping a fortnight undoes it. If you use it, start early in the season, repeat weekly and after rain, apply in morning sun, and treat it as one lever among the cultural ones — not a miracle. (Registered fungicides for home gardens also exist; if you go that route, the product label — crop, timing, withholding period before harvest — is the entire instruction set, and spraying edibles casually is exactly where label discipline matters most.)

Choose resistance up front

The quiet best move happens at seed time: modern zucchini and cucumber varieties bred for powdery mildew resistance last visibly longer in humid conditions. Seed packets and catalogues mark it (often “PM resistant”). In a subtropical summer, resistance plus spacing buys you more harvest weeks than any spray program.

When to pull the plant

There’s a point — usually late in the crop, plant mostly white, new leaves emerging pre-coated, fruit set stalled — where the plant is a spore factory endangering its neighbours and the kindest move is the green bin. Cucurbits are fast growers; in the subtropics a fresh succession sowing in the right window (calendar here via the tomato-timing logic) often out-produces a rescued veteran. Pull without guilt, plant the next one further apart, and let the mildew start from zero again.

Aphids on Roses and Veggies: Control Without Killing Your Bees

Bee foraging on an open rose bloom in a backyard garden bed

Every spring it’s the same discovery: the rose buds and the soft new veggie tips wear a coat of tiny green (or black, or grey) passengers. And every spring, a lot of gardens respond with a spray that solves aphids for a fortnight — and quietly deletes the ladybirds, lacewings and parasitoid wasps that would have solved them for the season. This article is the no-spray playbook. Not because purity, but because for aphids specifically, the no-spray methods genuinely work better by Christmas.

Know what you’re looking at

Aphids are soft-bodied sap-suckers, always clustered on the newest, softest growth — rose buds, tomato tops, the flush on a potted lemon. (Their fellow sap-suckers run the same playbook — scale, mealybugs, and on lilly pilly hedges the psyllid.) They excrete sugary honeydew, which explains the two side effects: sticky leaves that grow black sooty mould, and ants running highways up the stems (ants farm aphids for the sugar, and will actively defend them). A few aphids are nothing. A mob bending the new growth is worth ten minutes.

Check for one thing before acting: mummies and monsters. Bloated bronze aphid husks are parasitoid wasp work; small black-and-orange crocodile-shaped insects among the colony are ladybird larvae — each one eats hundreds of aphids. If the predators have arrived, the problem is already being solved by professionals. Stand down.

The playbook, in order

1. The water jet. A hard hose blast knocks aphids off; most never make it back. Repeat every couple of days for a week. On rose bushes and sturdy shrubs this alone usually ends the outbreak. (Morning, so leaves dry — the fungal-disease rule.)

2. Fingers. On veggie tips and single stems, run thumb and forefinger along the cluster. Ten seconds, done, deeply satisfying.

3. Prune the worst. A heavily infested single shoot can simply leave the premises — into a sealed bag or hot compost.

4. Break up the ant protection racket. If ants are farming the colony, control the ants’ access (sticky barrier bands on trunks, find and fix what else attracts them) and the aphids lose their bodyguards; predators move in fast after that.

5. Recruit permanently. Predators stay where there’s habitat: flowering plants among the veggies (alyssum, coriander gone to seed, daisies) feed adult hoverflies and lacewings whose larvae do the killing. A garden that never sprays builds a standing army — which is why year two of this approach is easier than year one.

Why not just use a spray — even a “natural” one?

Because nothing about a spray knows the difference between an aphid and a ladybird larva sitting in the middle of the colony, eating your aphids. That includes home-made and low-toxicity options: anything that suffocates or poisons soft-bodied insects takes out the beneficials on contact, and the aphids — who reproduce far faster than their predators — win the rebound every time. It’s the treadmill: spray, rebound, spray again. If an infestation ever genuinely overwhelms the methods above (rare on healthy plants), whatever you choose to use is governed by its registered label — but try the hose first. It’s free, it’s immediate, and the bees don’t attend the funeral.

One prevention note: lush, over-fertilised growth is aphid caviar. Feed steadily rather than heavily and there’s simply less soft tissue on offer — the same even-growth principle that keeps citrus leaf miner manageable. And while you’re patrolling with the hose, pollinate your zucchini — you’re out there at the right time of day anyway.

Related: Lilly Pilly Pimples: Psyllids, and Whether to Fight or Replant.

Curl Grubs: What They Are, and When They Actually Matter

Gardener's gloved hands turning over dark garden soil with a trowel in a vegetable bed

Turn over a spadeful of Australian soil and sooner or later you’ll meet it: fat, white, C-shaped, and somehow both sluggish and alarming. The reflex is to assume the worst and reach for a treatment. Hold on. “White grub in the soil” covers at least three different animals, and only one of them is sometimes a pest — sometimes being the operative word.

The three-way identity check

Curl grubs are the larvae of scarab beetles (several species). Creamy white, C-curled, with a brown-orange head capsule and six legs near the head. They live in soil and eat plant roots and organic matter. Found: lawns, garden beds, pots.

Black soldier fly larvae are the torpedo-shaped, legless, tan-to-dark grubs you find in busy compost bins — often in wriggling numbers that horrify people mid-turn. They are not curl grubs, they don’t eat living roots, and they’re among the best decomposers you can host — the small-space composting guide covers the systems they thrive in. Finding them in compost is a compliment, not a contamination.

Witchetty grubs are the large larvae of certain moths, living in the wood and roots of specific native trees and shrubs — not in your veggie bed, and not in your lawn. Most backyard “witchetty” sightings are actually large curl grubs; the habitat is the giveaway.

Quick location logic: wriggler in the compost = soldier fly, leave it be. C-shaped grub in soil = curl grub, read on. Grub inside wood = not your problem to solve.

When curl grubs are a non-event

Most of the time. A couple of curl grubs per spadeful in a garden bed is ordinary soil life — they’re eating dead organic matter as much as living root, birds and bandicoots snack on them, and healthy established plants don’t register the loss. Treating soil because you saw two grubs is spending money to fight the ecosystem. In pots, the calculus tightens (a confined root ball can’t outgrow much feeding) — if a potted plant is failing and you find multiple grubs at repot time, remove them by hand, refresh the mix, and you’re done. No product required.

When they cross the line

Numbers, in the wrong place. The damage scenario that matters is lawns in late spring and summer, when a heavy beetle hatch concentrates root-feeding under turf: brown patches that lift like carpet, and birds suddenly farming your backyard. That situation has its own confirm-then-decide workflow — soap flush, thresholds, and honest treatment talk — in the lawn grub guide. Garden beds almost never justify chemical response: hand removal while digging, chickens if you have them, and soil health do the job.

The bigger pattern

Curl grubs are a perfect example of the identify-before-treating rule that runs through the whole pest hub: white grub panic sells a lot of product for a problem that, examined closely, usually isn’t one. Learn the three-way ID, respect the lawn-summer exception, and let the rest of them get on with being bird food.

Protecting Plants in a Heatwave: What Works in the Real 40-Degree Week

Shade cloth pegged over a vegetable garden bed in harsh midday heat

There’s a particular Australian afternoon — the third day above 38, hot wind, the basil flat and even the natives looking philosophical — when gardeners discover that heat is a different enemy from drought. Drought is slow; a heatwave mugs the garden in hours. Getting through it is triage, and the order of operations matters more than any product.

The triage order

1. Water deep at dawn, not little and often. The single biggest lever. Water before sunrise so plants face the day fully loaded and moisture reaches depth before evaporation taxes it — the deep-watering method at its most important. In a heatwave the frequency rises (daily for beds under real stress, pots maybe twice) but the depth principle holds: shallow sprinkles in hot wind vanish before they matter. Evening top-ups for anything that flagged during the day are fine; dogma loses to a dying plant. And if water is racing off rather than in, your soil crust has gone repellent — the ten-second test and fix live in the watering guide.

2. Shade the vulnerable — temporarily. Emergency shade is stupidly effective: 30–50 percent shade cloth (the lighter grades — dense cloth steals too much light for edibles) pegged over stakes, an old bedsheet on tomato stakes, a beach umbrella over the hydrangea, shadecloth clipped to the trellis on the western side. Rig it before the worst day, aim it at afternoon sun, and remove it when the heat breaks — permanent shading is a different decision. Leafy greens, seedlings, hydrangeas, fuchsias and anything recently planted are first in the queue.

3. Move what can move. The container gardener’s superpower: pots migrate to the south side of the house, under trees, onto the shaded end of the balcony. Small dark pots in full sun are the first casualties of any heatwave — the pot-size and heat mechanics explain why the same plant in a bigger, lighter pot sails through. Hanging baskets come down; they dehydrate faster than anything on the ground.

4. Mulch anything bare — even mid-heatwave. A hand-span of mulch laid over just-watered soil drops the root zone’s temperature and halves its water loss for the rest of the event (what to use where). Ten minutes per bed, immediate payback.

5. Stop helping in the wrong ways. No fertilising during heat stress — feeding pushes growth exactly when the plant can’t fund it, and salts in dry soil burn roots. No pruning off scorched leaves mid-event — ugly foliage is now sun protection for what’s behind it; tidy up a week after the heat breaks. No transplanting, obviously. Benign restraint is a treatment.

Reading the plants honestly

Wilting at 3pm, perky by evening: normal defensive behaviour, not thirst — check soil before adding more water to an already-wet pot (heat wilt and drowning look identical from above; the finger settles it). Wilted at dawn: genuinely dry — water now, deeply. Scorched patches, bleached leaves: cosmetic sunburn; recovery pruning waits. Crisped seedlings: replant when the week ends — that’s what succession sowing is for, and it’s also why the herb list splits into the heat-proof and the doomed.

The bigger arc

Every heatwave audit writes next season’s plan: the bed that always cooks wants afternoon-shade planting or a shade-sail hook installed in comfort, the thirstiest pots want upsizing before December, and the garden that had mulch, deep roots and a shade kit in the shed treated the whole 40-degree week as weather rather than catastrophe. That’s the goal: not a heroic save every January, but a garden built so the save is barely needed. (Queensland’s other extreme-weather drill shares half this checklist — storm season prep.)

Storm Season Garden Prep for Queensland: The October Checklist

Dramatic storm front building over a tidy Queensland backyard with secured furniture

Queensland’s severe storm season runs roughly November through April, and every year it converts unprepared gardens into insurance claims and mulch. The good news: garden storm-prep is a single honest afternoon in October, and almost all of it is free. Here’s the checklist, ordered by what causes the actual damage.

1. The projectile audit (the big one)

In storm-force wind, everything loose is airborne, and garden items are the classic window-breakers. Walk the yard asking one question: if this moved at speed, what would it hit?

  • Furniture, trampolines, umbrellas: umbrellas down and stored on any storm-warning day; trampolines anchored or flipped; lightweight chairs stacked somewhere enclosed.
  • Pots: tall light pots on stands are the first casualties. Before a warned storm, move them down and against a sheltered wall — balcony gardeners, your railing planters and hanging baskets come off the rail at the first BOM warning, no exceptions; a hanging basket in a storm is a wrecking ball on a string.
  • The shame corner: star pickets, offcuts, empty pots, the tarp — the pile every yard has. Storm season is the deadline it needed.
  • Shade sails: designed for sun, not cyclonic gusts — know the release points and take them down ahead of severe warnings.

2. Trees: prevention now, professionals for the big stuff

October is the time to look up. Dead branches, half-cracked limbs from last season and heavy growth over the house are all pre-loaded storm damage. The boundaries here are hard ones: anything near powerlines is never a DIY job — that’s for your electricity network’s programs and licensed contractors — and large limbs or whole-tree work is arborist territory; chainsaw-at-height improvisation is how storm season fills emergency rooms before the storm. What is legitimately yours: pruning dead or crossing small branches you can reach from the ground, staking young trees properly (loose ties, two stakes — trees anchored rigid snap instead of flexing), and watering deeply through dry spells so root systems hold (deep roots are wind engineering).

3. Drainage: find the rivers before the rain does

A storm cell drops its month of rain in an hour, and the water goes exactly where it went last time. Clear gutters and downpipe outlets; clear the yard’s drains and grates of leaves and mulch drift; and check where downpipes discharge — a downpipe dumping beside a garden bed turns it into a bog (the waterlogged-bed recovery guide is the companion for afterwards). If part of the lawn ponds every summer, October is when a simple surface swale or regraded edge costs an hour instead of a lawn.

4. The garden itself

  • Harvest ahead of warnings — ripe fruit and heavy tomatoes come inside; wind takes the rest, and in fruit-fly country storm-dropped fruit left lying is next month’s infestation; collect and bin fallen fruit promptly after every blow.
  • Stake and tie what’s tall — dahlias, tomatoes, young shrubs — with soft ties and slack for movement.
  • Mulch check: fine dry mulch relocates in wind; wet it down or top with something coarser before a warned event.
  • Don’t fertilise into a forecast deluge — it washes off your garden and into the street drain, feeding the creek’s algae instead of your lawn.

5. The five-minute drill when a warning drops

Umbrella down, furniture flat or inside, baskets and light pots grounded against the wall, harvest grabbed, car out from under the gum tree. Rehearse it once in October and it stays a five-minute drill instead of a scramble in green-sky light. Then let the storm be what it is in a prepared garden: free deep watering with a light show.

Related: Waterlogged Garden After Rain: Triage and Drainage Fixes.

Yellow Leaves: A Practical Diagnosis Guide for Australian Gardens

A hand holding up a leaf that is half green and half yellowed, against a green backyard garden.

“Yellow leaves” is the garden’s check-engine light: it tells you something’s wrong and nothing about what. The pattern of the yellowing, though, narrows it fast. Four questions get you from panic to probable cause — and they matter, because the two most common causes (too much water, too little water) get opposite treatments.

The four questions

1. Which leaves — old or new? Plants ration nutrients. When a mobile nutrient like nitrogen runs short, the plant strips it from its oldest, lowest leaves to feed new growth — so old leaves yellowing evenly, bottom-up, while the top stays green, points to general hunger. When an immobile nutrient like iron runs short, it’s the newest leaves that come out yellow.

2. Whole leaf, or yellow between green veins? Even, all-over yellowing suggests nitrogen shortage, water trouble or light trouble. Interveinal yellowing — leaf gone yellow while the veins stay sharply green, on new growth — is the classic iron-deficiency signature. In Australia that shows up most on acid-loving plants (citrus, gardenias, camellias, many natives) growing in alkaline or limy soils, common in parts of Adelaide, Perth and coastal sand country: the iron is present but the pH locks it away.

3. What’s the watering been like — honestly? Overwatering and underwatering both yellow leaves, and overwatering is the more common killer, especially in pots. Feel the soil ten centimetres down, and look at the leaf itself. Limp, soft yellow leaves + soil that never dries + maybe a sour smell in pots = drowning roots. Dry, crisping yellow leaves + light pot + soil pulling from the pot edge = drought — and if water now runs straight through or beads off the surface, you’ve got hydrophobic soil, which mimics “I watered it, honest” drought. When you can’t tell, the finger test outranks the schedule every time — full method in the watering guide.

4. What changed recently? Just planted, repotted or moved? Expect some transient yellowing — transplant shock resolves with steady care. Moved a shade plant into sun? Bleached yellow-white patches are sunburn. Root-bound pot? Yellowing plus roots circling the drainage holes says the container’s done its dash. And scattered yellow stippling with speckles or stickiness isn’t a nutrition issue at all — that’s a pest pattern, so check the damage guide.

Matching fix to cause

  • Nitrogen hunger: feed with a balanced fertiliser in the growing season, per pack directions. One caution unique to Australian gardens: many natives (grevilleas and their relatives especially) are sensitive to phosphorus, so feed natives only with a native-formulated fertiliser.
  • Iron lock-out: treating the symptom (iron chelate per pack directions) greens new growth; treating the cause means addressing pH or growing acid-lovers in pots with the right mix. Don’t guess pH — an inexpensive test kit settles it.
  • Overwatering: stop watering by calendar, let the profile dry down, improve drainage, and in pots, check the pot actually drains. Yellow leaves already gone soft won’t re-green; success is the next leaves.
  • Underwatering / dry patch: deep soak, mulch, and fix water-repellent soil properly (here’s how).
  • Light or shock: relocate gradually, or wait it out with steady water.

When yellow is fine

Every plant sheds its oldest leaves — a few yellow ones low on an otherwise vigorous plant is housekeeping, not disease. Deciduous plants yellow wholesale in autumn by design. Citrus often drops some leaves after winter without drama. Treat yellowing as a signal worth two minutes of diagnosis, not two hundred dollars of products — most cases resolve with water discipline, one correct feed, or patience.

Common Australian Garden Pests: Identify Them by the Damage They Leave

A gardener holding up a leaf showing chewing damage on a backyard shrub, illustrative garden scene.

You rarely catch the pest in the act. What you get is the aftermath — holes, squiggles, sticky film, or a seedling that existed yesterday. So the fastest identification works backwards: match the damage pattern first, then confirm the culprit, then decide whether it even needs action. Plenty of garden damage in Australia sits below the level worth treating, and several of the insects you’ll find are on your side.

Start with the damage

Ragged holes in leaves, worst overnight. Caterpillars (look for dark droppings on leaves below) or snails and slugs (silvery trails, damage low on the plant, spikes after rain). Both are the classic seedling killers.

Silvery squiggly lines inside citrus leaves. Citrus leaf miner — the larva of a tiny moth tunnelling between the leaf surfaces. Unmistakable once seen, and mostly a cosmetic issue on established trees. Timing, not spraying, is how you protect new growth: the leaf miner guide covers it.

Sticky leaves, sooty black film, ants running trade routes. Sap-suckers: aphids (clustered on soft new tips), scale (small fixed bumps on stems and leaf undersides) or mealybugs (white cottony tufts in leaf joints). The stickiness is honeydew; the black is a mould growing on it; the ants are farming the insects for it. Manage the sap-sucker and the rest resolves.

Fruit that looks fine, then rots from the inside with maggots. Fruit fly — in most of eastern Australia, Queensland fruit fly. The eggs go in through a sting you can barely see; by the time fruit drops it’s too late for that fruit. This is the pest that most changes how (and when) subtropical gardeners grow soft fruit — it’s a large part of why tomato timing matters so much in Queensland.

Lawn dying in patches; birds, or bandicoots, suddenly very interested in your grass. Usually curl grubs — beetle larvae eating roots. A few are normal in any soil; damage only follows real numbers.

New growth distorted, buds eaten, but no insect by day. Check at night with a torch before blaming anything: earwigs, caterpillars and weevils all work the night shift. In many suburbs the answer is a possum — a protected animal with its own legal rules, and its own guide coming soon.

Fine speckling or bronzing on leaves, maybe faint webbing. Mites — worst in hot, dry, dusty conditions, often after broad-spectrum spraying killed their predators.

The ones you should NOT kill

Ladybirds and their fierce-looking larvae, lacewings, hoverflies, parasitoid wasps, spiders and praying mantises are your unpaid pest control. Two practical consequences. First, identify before you squash — a ladybird larva looks more villainous than most villains. Second, every broad-spectrum spray kills these allies at least as effectively as it kills pests, which is how one spray in spring buys you a mite problem in summer. The bar for spraying anything should be high, and the order of response should start with water jets, hand-picking, exclusion and tolerance.

When to accept damage

A healthy garden carries some insect damage all the time; the goal is harvests and plants that thrive, not unblemished leaves. Reasonable defaults: cosmetic leaf damage on established plants — ignore; damage to seedlings — act fast, they have no reserves; anything trending worse week on week — investigate properly. And if what you’re seeing is yellowing rather than chewing or stickiness, the cause is usually water, nutrition or light rather than any pest — run the yellow leaves diagnostic before treating for insects that aren’t there.

What this hub deliberately leaves out

Specific chemical controls. Where a pest justifies product-level talk (lawn grubs, fruit fly baiting, scale oils), the dedicated article handles it — naming categories of product, never application rates, because rates belong to the registered label on the container, not to a website. If an article anywhere tells you a spray dose in millilitres per litre, close it and read the label instead.

Related: Curl Grubs: What They Are, and When They Actually Matter.

Related: Aphids on Roses and Veggies: Control Without Killing Your Bees.

Related: Powdery Mildew on Zucchini, Cucumbers and Pumpkins: Manage It, Don’t Panic.

Related: Lilly Pilly Pimples: Psyllids, and Whether to Fight or Replant.