Bougainvillea Not Flowering? Make It Bloom

Photorealistic editorial 16:9 Australian courtyard garden scene with magenta bougainvillea bracts and healthy green shoots trained along a sunny timber fence beside a terracotta po

Bougainvillea not flowering despite a mass of healthy leaves? Check for too little direct sun, too much watering or feeding, and repeated trimming of new growth. For an established, vigorous plant, the first fix is often to stop the automatic watering and extra feeding, then give its shoots time to flower.

That is the useful version of “bougainvilleas thrive on neglect”. It means easing off unnecessary care, not drying a young plant to a crisp. Start with what yours is doing before changing anything.

Why is my bougainvillea all leaves and no flowers?

What you seeWhat to check firstFirst adjustment
Long, leafy shoots with little colourFrequent feeding, nearby lawn feeding or constant moisturePause extra feed and check moisture before watering
Healthy growth beneath a roof or treeDirect sunlight reaching the actual foliageImprove exposure or move a manageable pot
A neat green outline that gets clipped constantlyNew shoots removed before they flowerLeave a batch of shoots to develop
Yellowing leaves and persistently wet mixPoor drainage or standing water beneath the potResolve the drainage problem
A recently planted or repotted specimenEstablishment and root disturbanceKeep care steady; postpone bloom-forcing experiments
A plant that has just finished a displayA gap between flowering flushesWatch new growth instead of immediately feeding

These are clues, not a diagnosis from leaf colour alone. A leafy plant and a declining plant need different responses.

Is it getting sunlight or just a bright position?

A bright veranda can look ideal to us while giving the plant very little direct sun. Watch the foliage at different points through the day. Eaves, fences and neighbouring trees can shade it even when the paving beside it is sunny.

Bougainvillea suits a sunny position with freely draining soil. The showy colour comes from bracts surrounding the small true flowers. Those basic requirements are described in ABC Gardening Australia’s bougainvillea guide.

For a movable pot, improve exposure gradually if it has been growing in shade. For an established climber, consider whether shoots can be trained towards available light. Feeding cannot compensate for a position that stays shaded.

The same location-first thinking helps with growing frangipanis in beds and containers, although each plant still needs its own watering decisions.

Should I stop watering my bougainvillea?

Stop watering by habit. Check the root zone before reaching for the hose. If the soil beneath the surface is still moist, adding more water simply prolongs the wet period.

For an established plant, let the soil become drier between thorough waterings. In a pot, check below the dry-looking surface and notice whether the container still feels heavy with moisture. Empty standing water from saucers and make sure drainage holes are clear.

Do not deliberately push it into persistent wilting, brittle foliage or a completely dried-out root ball. Newly planted bougainvilleas still need moisture while their roots establish. A small pot can dry much faster than an established garden bed, so the neighbour’s untouched fence climber is a poor watering calendar for yours.

Adjust the diagnosis to your Australian growing conditions:

  • Queensland and subtropical gardens: check whether rain plus irrigation is keeping an already damp bed wet. Shared watering with thirsty neighbouring plants can be the hidden extra.
  • Tropical gardens: during wet spells, concentrate on drainage; during dry spells, check container moisture rather than assuming rain has done the job.
  • Temperate and cool gardens: when growth slows in cool conditions, reassess watering instead of carrying on the routine used during active growth.
  • Dry inland gardens: judge the root zone and plant condition carefully before reducing water further, particularly in exposed pots.

Does it need fertiliser to bloom?

Not automatically. If yours is already making abundant green growth, more feed is an unconvincing first response. Excess nitrogen can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowering. Check everything reaching the root area, including lawn fertiliser and repeated rich top-dressings.

Pause additional feeding while you assess sun, moisture and pruning. Do not stack a “flowering” feed on top of an existing feeding routine just because the label promises blooms.

This is a troubleshooting pause, not a lifetime ban on feeding. Container plants have a limited nutrient supply, and weak, pale growth needs a broader assessment. If feeding is warranted, follow the label. There is no universal bloom booster that fixes shade or sodden roots.

How should I prune bougainvillea for flowers?

Bougainvillea flowers on new growth, but repeatedly cutting that growth back can interrupt the display. ABC’s grower visit, Beautiful Bougs, highlights the need to time pruning so those shoots can flower.

Once a flowering flush finishes, shorten wayward shoots as needed, then let the resulting growth develop. Avoid clipping every tip whenever it escapes the outline. If the plant has not flowered, look at its recent pruning history before giving it another haircut.

A substantial size reduction also requires recovery time. Do not expect an immediate display after removing much of the canopy. Base routine tidying on the plant’s finished flowering flush rather than applying one pruning month across Australia.

What if it still refuses to flower?

Give the adjusted routine time to produce and mature new shoots. Record a photograph and note watering, feeding and trimming; otherwise it is easy to change the routine again before seeing its effect. There is no honest countdown to flowers for every cultivar and position.

If leaves are deteriorating, investigate plant health instead of trying harder to force blooms. For a neighbouring frangipani, distinguishing patterned leaf damage from ordinary leaf loss is a separate diagnosis, not a treatment to transfer to bougainvillea.

If shade or poor drainage is built into the site, use the guide to matching plants with garden conditions before making another planting decision. The lowest-effort garden starts with a plant that suits the spot.

Related reading: Hibiscus in Australia: Care, Pruning and the Beetle Problem and When to Fertilise Your Lawn in Australia (and When It’s Wasted).

Strawberries in Australia: A Winter Crop in the Subtropics

Photorealistic editorial 16:9 Australian subtropical courtyard garden in gentle winter sunlight, showing strawberry plants with ripe red fruit over the edge of a roomy terracotta p

Growing strawberries in Australia starts with choosing the right season for your climate. In coastal south-east Queensland, plant in autumn for a crop through the cooler months; a generic spring-start guide misses that opportunity. Queensland agricultural research confirms strawberries are grown through winter in the region. (Queensland DPI)

Pots work well, provided the roots have steady moisture and good drainage. Get the timing, planting depth and position right before worrying about how many berries you might pick.

When should you plant strawberries in your climate?

These are starting windows for plants or rooted runners, not seed-sowing dates. Choose a variety recommended for your district and check its planting instructions: climate zones are more useful than state borders.

ClimatePlanting windowHow to use it
Subtropical coastal SEQMarch-April for the regional winter crop; April-May is also recommended in home-garden guidancePlan an autumn start rather than waiting for spring.
Tropical lowlands, including the Top EndApril-May in the home-garden guideCheck local variety suitability; this is a starting point, not a promise of reliable fruiting everywhere in the tropics.
Warm temperate districtsJune-July in the home-garden guideConfirm the window for the plants you buy; avoid assuming every southern garden has the same winter conditions.
Cool temperate districts, including Tasmania and highland gardensSeptember-October in the home-garden guideUse a spring start and account for local frost exposure.
Arid districtsJune-July in the home-garden guideConfirm local suitability before committing a whole bed.

The Queensland window comes from the Queensland Strawberry Growers Association; the wider climate split comes from horticulturist Phil Dudman’s planting advice. The overlap reflects different growing situations, so there is no single national planting month.

For climate context, the NT Government describes May-October as the Top End dry season. In cool Tasmania, the state strawberry factsheet describes October-April harvesting, depending on variety, and warns that frost can damage flowers. Neither climate follows Brisbane’s calendar automatically.

Which plants should you start with?

For a first crop, choose labelled plants or rooted runners rather than starting with seed. A runner is a trailing stem that develops a daughter plant; once rooted, that plant can grow independently. Gardening Australia’s planting demonstration explains this process and shows strawberries grown in containers.

Ask for a variety suited to your climate and intended planting month. A label promising large fruit tells you little about whether the plant suits a Brisbane winter or a Tasmanian growing season.

Start with a manageable patch. Being able to reach every plant makes watering, checking ripeness and removing damaged fruit much easier.

How do you plant strawberries in pots or beds?

Keep the crown above the soil. This is the short, thick centre where leaves emerge and roots begin. Bury the roots, but leave that growing point exposed. Phil Dudman’s guide recommends spacing plants 30-40 cm apart, giving their leaves room rather than packing them together. (Planting guidance)

  1. Choose a bright position. Look for direct sun and some shelter from drying wind. Recheck the actual light at pot level: a sunny balcony railing can still shade everything beneath it.
  2. Prepare drainage. Use a container with open drainage holes and fresh potting mix. In a bed, work in mature compost; if the soil stays waterlogged, choose a raised planting area or pots.
  3. Set the plant at the right height. Spread bare roots down into the planting hole without folding them into a tight bundle. Firm gently, then water the roots in.
  4. Mulch around the plants. Straw helps keep fruit off damp soil. Leave a clear space around each crown and check its height again after watering settles the mix.

A roomy, ordinary pot is a sensible first choice. Pocketed strawberry towers can work, but check moisture in individual pockets: watering the top does not prove every root ball has been wetted. Hanging baskets also need easy access for regular checks.

How much watering and feeding do they need?

Aim for evenly moist roots with surplus water able to drain away. Feel the mix beneath the mulch before watering. If it is still wet, wait; if it is drying, water thoroughly and check that water reaches the root ball rather than running down a gap beside it.

Empty standing water from saucers. Repeated wilting in wet mix is a reason to investigate drainage, not add another drink. Wind-exposed containers can dry differently from sheltered ones, so avoid giving every pot an identical schedule.

For feeding, follow the directions for a fertiliser labelled for edible fruiting plants. Check whether new potting mix already contains fertiliser before adding more.

Why are there leaves but little fruit?

Check variety, season and light first. A healthy plant outside its local fruiting period is not necessarily failing. Remove unwanted runners if your priority is maintaining a compact fruiting patch, and keep fruit clear of wet mulch.

Pick berries when fully coloured and ripe: they will not ripen properly after picking. Queensland’s industry guide describes fruiting from May into October under suitable conditions, but planting late or starting with small plants can change your result. (Queensland grower guidance)

The same attention to local timing matters for getting a Queensland tomato crop started. For other containers, choosing herbs for hot weather helps match plants to the conditions you actually have.

Plan your next planting: use the month-by-month guide for subtropical edible gardens to organise the rest of the patch around your strawberry season.

Related reading: Small-Space Fruit: Dwarf Varieties That Earn Their Spot and No-Dig Garden Beds: Build One in an Afternoon.

Small-Space Fruit: Dwarf Varieties That Earn Their Spot

Photorealistic editorial 16:9 Australian courtyard garden scene showing a compact lemon tree with a modest scattering of fruit in a roomy plain pot beside herbs, natural daylight,

For Australian small spaces, a dwarf lemon or lime is a sensible starting point if you have a sunny position and can keep up with container care. Dwarf fruit trees save canopy space; they do not promise supermarket-sized harvests. Choose fruit you use, check what makes the tree dwarf, and treat stone fruit’s winter requirements as a separate decision.

What does “dwarf” actually mean?

A dwarf tree may be a naturally compact variety or a familiar fruit variety grafted onto a growth-limiting rootstock. A tree described as suitable for pots may simply tolerate pruning and container growing. Those descriptions are not interchangeable.

Ask for the variety, rootstock and expected mature spread, including whether the quoted size assumes regular pruning. Height alone misses branches pushing into a doorway or across the only sunny seat.

For citrus, Flying Dragon is one dwarfing rootstock used by Australian growers. Smaller growth can still carry full-sized fruit, as Engall’s Nursery explains. That describes fruit size, not how many you will pick. A small canopy has a smaller working leaf area, and an undersized pot adds another constraint.

Which dwarf varieties deserve a look?

This shortlist uses kitchen usefulness, manageable space and the ability to buy a clearly identified tree as its criteria. It is not a tested yield ranking.

ChoiceWhy consider it?Check before committing
Meyer lemon on dwarfing rootstockUseful if lemons regularly go into your cookingConfirm the dwarfing rootstock; the name Meyer alone does not guarantee a dwarf tree
Tahitian lime on dwarfing rootstockA modest picking can still be useful for a household that uses limesCheck local performance and the space needed for its mature canopy
Dwarf mandarinWorth considering when fresh eating matters more than cookingAsk about the named variety’s harvest period and pollination needs
Compact peach or nectarineAn option for a gardener particularly keen on stone fruitVerify both compact habit and local winter suitability

Daleys’ dwarf citrus descriptions include Meyer and Tahitian options. Use nursery descriptions to identify the planting material, then assess your own space; catalogue enthusiasm is not a household harvest forecast.

A lemon you use regularly can earn its place with modest pickings. A mandarin may need to deliver more fruit at once to feel worthwhile to your household. Neither is inherently better: start with what you would enjoy harvesting.

Why is stone fruit a bigger decision in Queensland?

Dwarf does not mean low chill. Compact branches solve a space problem; winter chilling requirements concern the tree’s seasonal development. Queensland research treats low chilling requirement and compact habit as separate traits in subtropical peach breeding.

For south-east Queensland and subtropical northern NSW, seek a locally demonstrated low-chill selection rather than buying a compact peach on appearance. Hort Innovation’s breeding report specifically covers low-chill stone fruit in this growing region. Ask whether the exact variety crops in conditions like yours, not merely somewhere in Queensland.

For temperate districts and cool highlands, match the named variety to local winter conditions; a low-chill label is not automatically an advantage. For tropical lowlands, treat a dwarf peach or nectarine as a specialist choice needing local evidence before purchase.

Chill-hour figures are deliberately not supplied here. A generic number on a shopping page cannot settle suitability for every suburb, elevation or sheltered courtyard. If the nursery cannot explain the local match, leave that tree off the shortlist.

How much fruit should you honestly expect?

Budget for supplementary pickings, not household self-sufficiency. A recently purchased tree may arrive carrying fruit, but that crop does not establish what it will produce after moving into your pot and position.

During establishment, prioritise healthy roots, foliage and a sound branch framework. A small tree struggling under fruit may benefit from having some removed. Once established, assess performance across several crops rather than judging it by one disappointing harvest.

Sunlight, watering consistency, root room, pollination and variety all affect the result. Before buying any fruit tree, check whether it needs a compatible pollination partner. A purchase that requires another tree changes the space calculation immediately.

Avoid promised kilograms or a guaranteed first harvest date. Without the tree’s age, growing conditions and management history, those numbers would offer false precision.

What makes fruit trees in pots workable?

Start with the position. Trace the actual direct light reaching the leaves, including shade from roofs and neighbouring buildings. The guide to reading balcony sunlight helps distinguish a bright-looking corner from a useful growing position.

Then plan the container around the tree’s root ball and future growth. Use a stable pot with open drainage holes and container potting mix. Keep the original planting depth, and leave room to water without spilling mix over the rim. There is no single pot size that suits every dwarf tree for life.

Check moisture within the mix before watering, then wet the root zone thoroughly and allow excess water to drain. Reassess as conditions change; a fixed weekly calendar cannot account for wind, heat or a growing canopy. Feed according to the label, and investigate poor growth before assuming more feed is the answer.

Keep companion planting modest. Filling the tree’s pot with hungry vegetables adds competition and complicates watering. Give other crops their own containers using these crop-by-crop container choices.

What should you choose first?

Choose one clearly identified dwarf citrus if its fruit suits your kitchen and the position suits citrus. Choose stone fruit only after resolving the local winter match and pollination requirements. Leave space to reach the pot, inspect the leaves and harvest without moving everything else.

Before buying, map the available room and watering access with the practical small-space setup guide. A tree earns its spot when caring for it fits your routine and the fruit gets used.

Hanging Baskets That Survive Australian Heat

Photorealistic editorial 16:9 Australian courtyard garden scene showing a generous hanging basket of trailing purple fan flowers in gentle morning light beside a shaded verandah, w

For hanging baskets in Australia, start with scaevola for a sunny position, trailing pelargoniums for sun with good drainage, or wax begonias for morning sun and afternoon shelter. But the plant is only half the answer: a hanging basket can be the smallest, hottest pot in the garden, with wind reaching every side. Even a heat-tolerant plant cannot keep growing in a root ball that repeatedly dries right through.

If you cannot check moisture regularly during hot weather, choose a larger pot at ground level. Hanging baskets earn their display with watering attention; there is no plant list that removes that trade-off.

Why do hanging baskets dry out so quickly?

A small basket holds little potting mix, while a full canopy carries plenty of thirsty leaves. Exposed fibre liners let moisture escape through the sides. Wind adds drying, and a hot wall or paving can make an already sunny spot harsher.

The nursery display can also be misleading. A basket packed with mature plants looks finished immediately, but leaves little room for roots to expand. As roots occupy more of the container, the buffer between watering and wilting shrinks.

Watch the actual hanging position before buying plants. Light at railing height may differ from light under the eaves. The guide to reading sun and shade on your balcony helps separate useful morning light from a punishing afternoon position.

Which plants are sensible starting points?

Choose for the available light and your watering capacity, then check the individual plant’s label for its mature spread and preferred conditions. These are options to match to a site, not promises of survival anywhere.

PlantPosition to considerThe watering catch
Scaevola, or fan flowerSunny, open position; a trailing form gives flowers over the rimEstablished plants tolerate some drying, but a small root ball still needs checking
Trailing pelargoniumSunny spot with airflow and freely draining mixLet the surface begin drying; constantly wet mix is not heat protection
Wax begoniaMorning sun or bright filtered light, sheltered from harsh afternoon exposureKeep moisture reasonably even without leaving the basket sodden
Trailing succulent, such as donkey’s tailBright sheltered position, introduced gradually to stronger lightAllow mix to dry between waterings; keep separate from moisture-loving plants

For a first basket, one plant type is easier to manage than a mixed arrangement. A succulent beside a begonia creates competing watering needs in the same small container.

Petunias can make a lovely flowering basket, but a dense display is an ongoing watering and grooming commitment. Choose them for that display, rather than expecting a low-attention solution to a drying problem.

How should the approach change around Australia?

Use local conditions rather than a national planting date:

  • Queensland and other subtropical gardens: prioritise afternoon shelter and drainage. Check baskets under eaves directly; rain on the garden does not mean the hanging root ball got wet.
  • Tropical gardens: assess exposure to both downpours and drying wind. Place plants that need a dry-down where you can manage the water reaching their mix.
  • Temperate gardens: judge hot spells by the basket’s moisture, rather than carrying an ordinary-weather routine through them. Move a struggling basket to gentler light.
  • Cool districts and highlands: do not assume cooler air means moist roots; exposed baskets still need checking. Match each plant’s cold tolerance to the site rather than adopting a Queensland plant choice automatically.

There is no need to plant into extreme conditions. Establish a new basket in a sheltered position and increase exposure gradually, watching both foliage and moisture.

What basket setup gives roots a better chance?

Choose a generous container rather than a shallow decorative shell. A solid-sided hanging pot generally loses less moisture through its walls than an exposed fibre-lined basket. Keep drainage openings clear; sealing the base trades drying out for waterlogged roots.

Use fresh container potting mix, not garden soil, and leave space below the rim so water can collect briefly and soak in. Avoid cramming plants shoulder to shoulder. Leave room for their labelled spread and roots.

Keep the basket within easy reach for checking and watering. Plan the support for its fully watered weight using the manufacturer’s guidance. If that makes a larger basket impractical, use a ground-level container. The same root-space lesson behind successful container crops applies to flowers: more foliage needs a workable supply of moisture below it.

How do you water a basket that keeps wilting?

Check the mix before adding water. Feel beneath the surface and compare the basket’s weight with how it feels after thorough watering and drainage.

What you findWhat to do next
Light basket and dry mix beneath the surfaceWater slowly across the surface, pause, then repeat until the root ball is moistened
Water rushing down the sides while the centre stays dryLower the basket and rewet gradually; runoff alone does not prove the roots received water
Wilted leaves but moist, heavy mixMove into gentler light and check drainage before watering again
Mix drying again very quickly after thorough wateringReduce exposure; inspect for crowded roots and consider a larger container

Let excess water drain away. A quick splash that wets only the top is not a substitute for reaching the roots. Check again later during hot, windy conditions; some baskets may need another watering, while others will still be moist. Daily checking does not mean automatic daily watering.

If a basket repeatedly collapses between checks, change the position or container instead of accepting wilting as the routine. Start with the small-balcony setup guide to find a sheltered, reachable place where the display fits the care you can actually give it.

Related reading: Plants for Windy Balconies: What Actually Copes and Self-Watering Pots: How They Work, When They’re Worth It, When They Fail.

Indoor Plants for Low Light: The Real List

Photorealistic editorial 16:9 Australian indoor garden scene in a modest Queensland rental, cast-iron plant and ZZ plant beside a window overlooking a shaded subtropical courtyard,

Cast-iron plants, ZZ plants and Chinese evergreens are realistic low light indoor plants. Snake plants and green-leaved trailing plants can also cope with dimmer positions, but expect slower growth, not a thriving jungle. No living houseplant grows indefinitely without light: a windowless room needs suitable artificial growing light or a different decorating choice.

This list favours plants that tolerate limited daylight and manageable care. It does not promise that every empty corner deserves a pot.

What does low light actually mean?

Low light means a position receiving weak natural light for part of the day, without much direct sun. It does not mean a cupboard, an internal bathroom with the door shut, or a hallway illuminated only when someone walks through.

Stand where the leaves will sit and switch off the room lights during daylight. Can you comfortably read ordinary print there? That is a rough screening check, not a measurement or guarantee. A spot that feels gloomy even to your eyes is a poor starting point. The RHS guide to shady rooms also stresses that shade-tolerant plants still need some light.

In a Queensland rental, a verandah roof, neighbouring wall or closed blind can matter more than the direction the window faces. Assess the actual shelf, not the brightness beside the glass. A tall bookcase can put leaves in shadow while the room looks perfectly cheerful.

Which plants belong on the shortlist?

Cast-iron plant: for a quiet foliage corner

Aspidistra has broad, upright leaves and suits a floor position that still receives daylight. Choose it for durable foliage, not rapid filling-out. A plant that holds its leaves well but adds little growth may be doing about as much as that location allows.

Let the surface mix dry before watering, and check beneath it rather than assuming a dry crust means the whole pot is dry.

ZZ plant: for someone who can leave the watering can alone

Zamioculcas offers glossy, upright foliage and tolerates lower light. Its water-storing underground stems make frequent watering a poor match. Let the mix dry between waterings and empty the outer decorative pot afterwards.

It is a good candidate for a dim desk beside a window; it is not a solution for a desk with no daylight at all.

Chinese evergreen: choose the foliage carefully

Aglaonema is another option for softer, indirect light. Look towards green-dominant forms rather than assuming every brightly patterned cultivar has identical requirements. Keep it away from the direct blast of air conditioning, and avoid leaving its roots in soggy mix. The RHS low-light plant profiles support these three choices, with care varying between them.

Snake plant: tolerant, with a limit

Snake plants can hold their shape in lower light, which makes them tempting for narrow corners. They generally grow better with more light, though, and a plant sitting unchanged is not proof of ideal conditions. Allow the mix to dry between waterings. A dim position plus constantly wet roots is the combination to avoid.

Green devil’s ivy or heartleaf philodendron: for a shelf near daylight

These trailing options suit the brighter end of low light. Keep the growing tips exposed to window light rather than trailing into a dark recess. Increasing gaps between leaves and increasingly small new leaves are reasons to reassess the position, not to keep trimming and hope for bushiness.

Which popular plants should you leave off the dark-room list?

Skip sun-loving succulents, most cacti and culinary herbs for genuinely dim rooms. A compact shop specimen can gradually stretch and weaken there. An attractive photograph taken on delivery day tells you nothing about long-term suitability.

Fiddle-leaf figs, bird of paradise and strongly variegated foliage plants are also poor first choices for the darkest available position. Give them a brighter location instead of treating a general houseplant label as a light recommendation.

Peace lilies deserve an asterisk: foliage can tolerate lower light, but plentiful flowers are a different expectation. Ferns also need more thought than “shade plant”; moisture management and room conditions can make them less forgiving than this shortlist.

How do you keep a low-light plant going?

Start with one plant in the brightest practical position. A freestanding stand can lift leaves above furniture without turning a rental into a renovation project. Open blinds when practical and keep foliage free of heavy dust.

Check the pot before watering. Slower growth and reduced evaporation can leave mix damp longer, so copying a sunny windowsill’s watering routine is a common mistake. Check below the surface and notice the pot’s weight. Water when that plant needs it, let excess drain, and never leave the nursery pot sitting in collected water.

Tiny flies rising from persistently damp mix are another reason to review the routine; see how to tackle flies breeding in potting mix. Damaged leaf ends need a broader check, because crispy edges have several possible causes.

When should you move it?

Take a starting photo and compare subsequent growth. Stable foliage with slow growth is a reasonable low-light outcome. Progressive leaf loss, increasingly sparse stems or weaker new growth call for reassessment of both light and roots.

Move a struggling plant towards brighter indirect light rather than giving it a sudden spell in strong outdoor sun. Extra fertiliser cannot replace missing light, and brief window visits do not reliably compensate for spending most of its time in darkness.

If your only available spot has no useful daylight, choose suitable growing light or an artificial plant. For a living plant, finish by matching the position and watering routine with the practical houseplant starter guide.